| Not so long ago, this sleepy burg 250 kms south of Spokane
was known for two things: its sweet-tasting onion and its maximum security prison—neither
of which were attracting tourists in droves. Yet lately this community of 35,000
has been transformed by the grapevine and now boasts more than 80 vineyards. Talented
chefs have also made the move to this fertile valley, happy to get their produce
from the local farmer and to have their meals washed down with local wines ranging
from blockbuster cabs and merlots (the region’s two leading varietals) to
local curiosities like the pinot-ish lembergers.
What to Do
Road bikers will revel in the relatively level terrain of the southeastern corner
of Washington, which offers a web of backcountry roads through vineyards and fields
of wheat, onions and peas. Unlike Napa, with its close proximity to San Francisco,
there are no limos or buses filled with wine “tasters” to blow exhaust
your way. Pedal south of town to view the 1900-metre snow-capped peaks of the
Blue Mountains while surrounded by some of the region’s top wineries, like
Pepper Bridge, and Northstar.
Closer to town resides K Vintners, conveniently, if not picturesquely, located
near the small airport. Syrah is king here and winemaker Charles Smith has received
almost nonstop accolades from the wine press since setting up shop in 2001. Likewise
a critical darling and fellow syrah acolyte is French-born Christophe Baron at
Cayuse Vineyards. His tasting room is housed in the historic Dacres Building,
one of a dozen or so century-old brick buildings that line Main Street.
And lest anyone in town get too highfalutin with these new crops, come summertime
the town still adores the baseball-size Walla Walla onion—the official state
vegetable of Washington. They’re available from late May though September
at the Saturday morning farmers market, along with local corn, cherries, strawberries
and dynamite artisanal cheeses, the latter are created by the husband-and-wife
team Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet in nearby Dayton.
Where to Eat
The great thing about wine regions is that often they act as a lightning rod for
those attracted to all facets of living the good life. In Walla Walla it wasn’t
until Mike Davis opened 26 Brix in June 2004 that people began to take the dining
scene seriously in town. But since then the area’s restaurant bounty has
been steadily punching far above its weight class. At 26 Brix, Davis melds his
classical French sauces to the bounty of Northwestern fish and farm. Start with
an heirloom tomato salad with shaved fontina cheese, doused in a lemon truffle
vinaigrette. Then move on to the Alaskan halibut or Muscovy duck with a warm apple-and-fennel
salad.
How can you not love a restaurant that lists all their local food suppliers
on their website? The chanterelle mushrooms found in the CreekTown Café’s
veal burgundy entree were foraged by Joe Daugherty and the wild Alaskan salmon
was recently hooked by “Salmon Lady” Beatrice Reynolds. Pick up a
bottle of cabernet from legendary local producer L’École No. 41 (almost
all of the town’s restaurants have modest corkage fees) and you will know
what it means to truly dine locally.
Where to Stay
Many locals credit the refurbishment of the grand Marcus Whitman hotel in February
2001 as Walla Walla’s turning point. Opened in 1928, the town’s original
showpiece had come upon rocky times in the mid-’70s, when it was used for
subsistence housing. Then a group of local businessman converted the hotel back
to its original glamour, with dark wood panelling in the ornate lobby and handcrafted
desks in the 127 spacious and affordable rooms. Ask for a suite on the upper floors
and you’ll get a good view of the Blue Mountains from your window.
For a more pastoral stay, the Inn at Abeja is a short drive from downtown
and offers lodging in a century-old farmhouse surrounded by 22 acres of fields,
vineyards and creeks. Take a stroll in the countryside and return to your room
with a bottle of Abeja’s cabernet. |
