DAY ONE: ART & ARCHITECTURE

The revival of the Centro Histórico, the arts district and architectural marvel of Mexico, has seen galleries, cafés and classy restaurants pop up around the Zócalo plaza. Just north lies the Metropolitan Cathedral—stop here for a queasy look at how the city is sinking under the weight of its own history. (Note how low the chandeliers hang in relation to the building‘s floor.) Eight blocks west, the House of Tiles (52-55-5512-7882), features an Orozco mural on the second floor that’s worth a pause. Kitty-corner from the palace, you‘ll find the Torre Latinoamericana skyscraper, whose 45 floors may not seem like much anymore, but whose design is a pure architectural expression of Mexico’s post-WWII modernity. Take a taxi to the Museum of Frida Kahlo (52-55-5554-5999, museofridakahlo.org.mx) to see the home, art, books and letters that Kahlo shared with her soul-mate Diego Rivera. Complete the evening with a tour de force of music and dance at the Palacio de Bellas Artes (52-55-5512-2593), where Amalia Hernández presents her internationally renowned Ballet Folklórico. Arrive early to admire the murals by Rivera, Siqueiros and Tamayo that grace the walls of the National Theatre.

DAY TWO: VILLA COYOACÁN DISTRICT

Hail a cab to Villa Coyoacán, home to bookshops, soigné furniture stores and a flea market infamous for selling "fine art" of rather dubious taste. At Ave Maria Restaurante (52-55-5554-4170), to the south of the central square, order the chile relleno de cuatro quesos. This ultimate street food is a Mexican chili stuffed with zucchini flowers and Oaxacan cheese. A short walk from the restaurant is Viveros de Coyoacán, an attractive inner-city greenspace overflowing with pavilions, water fountains and ice-cream vendors. Take a breather and admire the sculpture garden, where the trippy lava-scape and high modernist pieces seem like something from another planet. Even the gloomiest cynics find themselves grinning over dinner at Pujol (52-55-5545-4111, pujol.com.mx), where executive chef Enrique Olvera was among the first restaurateurs in the world to experiment with molecular cooking. Liquid quesadillas are just the begining at this over-the-top eatery. And now that you‘ve eaten salsa, it’s time to dance the salsa. At the city’s original design hotel, Habita (52-55-5282-3100, hotelhabita.com), the Sky Bar delivers fresh tunes and serious cocktails all night long.

DAY THREE: HISTORICAL LANDMARKS

With 1,600 acres of well-tended greenery and dramatic, curious monuments, Chapultepec Park—once a favoured retreat for viceroys and ruling elites—is now the place to snap a few Polaroids, get your face painted and explore some of the Western hemisphere’s finest—and most under-the-radar—museums. Jump straight to the Maya and Aztec galleries at the National Museum of Anthropology (52-55-5553-6332, mna.inah.gob.mx) for a peek at the Piedra del Sol, a large monolithic sculpture that was once mistakenly identified as the Aztec calendar. After a shot of bracing espresso at Café Punta del Cielo (52-55-5280-7094), take a taxi to the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (52-55-5570-6022) and admire the modern shrine by architect Pedro Ramirez Vázquez. Some six million visitors flock to the church every year to view its image of the Virgin (moving walkways control traffic and bring visitors as close as possible to the Empress of the Americas). If you‘re feeling adventurous, travel a further 15 miles north to reach Zona Arqueológica de Teotihuacán. Climb the 2,000-year-old stairway to the "heavenly pyramids" and drink in the eerie stillness as you look far into the distance. A final can’t-miss memory? Brace yourself and snack on the ant larvae, silkworm and rose petal pie at the temple of "I’ll do anything once" Los Girasoles (52-55-5510-3281). wl

GETTING THERE

Air Canada offers direct flights to Mexico City from Vancouver daily.

STAY

The Hotel Presidente InterContinental
(Campos Eliseos 218, Colonia Polanco, 52-55-5327-7700, intercontinental.com), with 661 rooms, is revered for its safety and stellar service—and for its iconic high-1970s lobby that’s looking sexier every day.

St. Regis Lady Gaga fled here (Paseo de la Reforma 439, Colonia Cuauhtémoc, 52-55-5228-1818, starwoodhotels.com) on her visit to the country’s capital.

Condesa DF Paris Hilton opted for the boutique Condesa DF instead (Avenida Veracruz 102, 52-55-5241-2600, condesadf.com).

Brick (Orizaba 95 at Tabaso, 52-55-5525-1100, hotelbrick.com), newly opened at press time, is already generating buzz for its choice of Kiehl’s toiletries and Moorish-inspired design. wl