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GAZING UP AT THE STARRY SKY from a moonless, tropical beach is, romance-wise, right up there with sharing a baguette pour deux in Paris.
Even better still if that vantage point happens to be on the Big Island of Hawaii, where both astro-buffs and novices can take stargazing to the next level with just a small diversion from the typical beach holiday.
Hilo
The ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center of Hawai’i (808-969-9700, imiloa
hawaii.org) opened in the mid-1990s with a unique two-pronged mission: to teach visitors about both the heavens and traditional Hawaiian culture. Start with its signature planetarium show, Maunakea: Between Earth and Sky, a full-dome video keynoted by what seem like impossible voyages by the ancient, seafaring Marquesans who are thought to have steered their double-hulled canoes across 3,400 kilometres of open water to Hawaii around AD 300. The show and accompanying exhibits explain Polynesian ways of referencing the sky, and how primitive but effective forms of navigation
were likely to have guided them.
Mauna Kea
The snow-covered (in what passes for winter here) peak, 4,205 metres
above the snorkelling zone, dominates Hawaii’s largest island. Long a sacred place for Hawaiians to commune celestially, it drew the attention of modern astronomers in the mid-20th century. Why Mauna Kea? Chalk it up to the laminar flow of the air mass above the volcanic peaks, which has an unusual lack of turbulence, leaving the atmosphere almost distortion-free. Add in
low light pollution, an equatorial perspective of the canopy, plus 300 clear nights a year, and you’ve got one of the best astronomical settings on Earth.
One of the first observatories was the 3.58-metre-aperture
Canada-France-Hawaii Telescope, which began operation in 1979. Today, that and 12 other telescopes line the sparse, tundra-like ridge top, where a small tribe of scientists collect data and maintain delicate equipment.
Visitors equipped with four-wheel drive are allowed on the summit (though not after dark), and there are some limited peek-in opportunities, but short of befriending a staff astronomer, you won’t really see much of the inner workings at the summit. The best option is to visit the Onizuka Visitor Center (808-935-6268, ifa.hawaii.edu), which offers nighttime viewing (6 to 10 p.m.) to satisfy your inner Carl Sagan. A commercial tour (try Mauna Kea Summit Adventures, 888-322-2366, maunakea
.com) takes all the hassle out of it. wl
For more information, visit bigisland.org or gohawaii.com.
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Stars of the West
From telescopes in rooms to on-site observatories, stargazing is one of the hottest travel trends around.
Observatory Hill in Victoria (250-363-8262, nrc-cnrc.gc.ca), operated by the National Research Council, is Canada’s most accessible telescope, sitting between the airport/ferry terminal and downtown. Highlights include the chance to look through the 1.8-metre Plaskett telescope, which has been in operation since 1918.
Rothney Astrophysical Observatory in Priddis, Alberta (403-220-5385, ucalgary
.ca/rao), just south of Calgary and operated by the University of Calgary, has the only telescope in Canada dedicated to tracking “killer” asteroids.
Observatory B&B in Osoyoos, B.C., (250-495-6745, jacknewton.com), offers the coziest surroundings for viewing the heavens—it’s a short stroll from the telescope to your room at this South Okanagan wine country B&B.
Loews Ventana Canyon in Tucson, Arizona (520-299-2020, loewshotels.com), has a poolside stargazing program for guests, conducted on weekend nights by a professional astronomer.
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