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What’s in a name? A lot, to a steer-wrestling, Texan
trial lawyer browsing British Columbia’s bustling supermarket of powder.
A catchy moniker, Powder Cowboy Catskiing, and some eye-popping website images
were enough to lure Dallas attorney Tim Hartley and his two pals north to try
cat skiing in the snowy folds of the Rocky Mountains between Fernie and Cranbrook
(nicknamed the "Powder Highway" by savvy marketers). The sport attempts
to bring the rarefied, untouched snow of heli-skiing to those with a bit more
time and a tad less cash on their hands. Ride up mountain in a glorified heated
bus on tank tracks, accompanied by guides. Click into bindings, point skis downhill
and fill face with powder. Repeat these steps.
"I gotta admit, the name got me," Hartley says, as we huddle in the
truck-size, snowmobile-like snowcat on a January morning. Frost cakes the windows,
transforming our vehicle into a portable igloo. After half an hour, the machine
lurches to a halt at the top of Bonnie’s Bowl. Guide Natalie Renner cracks
open the door and our group, including the Texans and a father-and-two-sons trio
from Edmonton, bails out into the mountain air.
After buttoning up powder skirts and buckling boots, Renner instructs us to stay
to the right of her tracks, then pushes off with a smile, disappearing over a
camel bump of snow into the basin. A few of us pause to lust over vertiginous
pencil couloirs striping the southwestern flanks of the Lizard Range across the
valley.
"You’d be crazy to ski that," says Hartley, a guy who once leapt
into corrals with 250-kilogram steers just for fun. Yet moments later Hartley
drops in, wrestling his big frame through shin-deep, billowing powder. After a
few dozen turns, the bowl funnels into a fairytale forest of perfectly spaced
snow-ghost trees. In 15 minutes we’re already regrouping at the pick-up
zone. By day’s end, with roughly 4,000 metres of powder notched on our saddles,
we reconvene back at the ranch, legs predictably rubbery. Evening sun casts the
mountains in a tangerine glow, while a half-dozen horses stand resolutely in valley-bottom
shade. Inside the lodge, the stone hearth crackles reassuringly and Hartley sinks
into a couch, beer in hand, beneath the frozen gaze of a bull elk mount. Here
on the Powder Highway, there’s just enough Wild West flavour to tug at the
heartstrings of a rodeo-riding Texan and his new Albertan friends. |
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We rode with one of the granddaddies of cat skiing, Island Lake Resort, which
fired up its first snowcat in the Lizard Range west of Fernie in 1989. Eight years
ago it relaunched as Powder Cowboy Catskiing (powdercow boy.com), based out of
the picturesque Bull River Guest Ranch (rates from $625 a day for a two-day excursion).
Big-game trophies festoon the log walls of the lodge, which also features a serious
wine selection and carbo-loading fare like orange-cardamom pancakes.
Baldface Lodge (Nelson, BC, 250-352-0006, baldface.net), nestled in the Selkirk
Mountains a short helicopter flight from Nelson, is known for deep snow and big
bowls (from $1,692 to $3,678 for multi-day trips, including lodging).
Retallack (New Denver, BC, 250-354-5324, retallack.com) mines powder between New
Denver and Kaslo, and in 2007 gleaned celebrity-level publicity after Yankee pro-skiing
superstars Seth Morrison and Tanner Hall signed on as investors (rates from $325
a day).
Farther north in the Selkirks, White Grizzly Adventures (Meadow Creek, BC, 800-843-5557,
whitegrizzly.com) caters to the experts and offers an abundance of serious runs
in the palm-sweating 40-degree realm (rates from $425 a day).
All of the above lodges can furnish you with the necessary equipment from wide-body
powder skis and snowboards to the life-saving avalanche beacons that are required
equipment. You’ll also get training in mountain safety, avalanche rescue
and beacon search.
Go to kootenayrockies.com to learn more about snowy opportunities on BC’s
Powder Highway. |
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