Until 2001 Pabst Blue Ribbon-that most lunch bucket of brews-was made here. Today, coiffed and exfoliated clients, top-notch cuisine-and the chefs who make it-plus more than 200 kilowatts of solar power (among the biggest solar project in Texas) come from the reborn 1883 Pearl Brewery. Soon it will host concerts and performances at a riverside amphitheatre and be populated by residents of contemporary loft-style apartments and live-work units. Developed by former Pace Foods owner Kit Goldsbury, the project has a unique culinary focus that announces the growing recognition of how important south-of-the-border influences are to American food.
LEARN The Culinary Institute of America is known for turning out the finest chefs in the U.S. from its Napa Valley and New York state campuses. This month sees the opening of a third location, CIA San Antonio, that puts a firm emphasis on Latin cuisine (312 Pearl Pkwy., Building 3, 210-222-1113, 800-285-4627, ciachef.edu). Students complete a 30-week intensive cooking curriculum, and weekend kitchen warriors can register for day classes or two- to five-day "boot camps" in culinary basic training or Mexican regional cuisine. (Day classes start at $250; boot camps at $850.)

The CIA is also home to the Center for Foods of the Americas, founded with a $35-million grant from Goldsbury to "help raise awareness of Latin American cuisines as being among the world’s leading culinary traditions, with Latino chefs at the forefront of this movement." Professional chefs take part in research, seminars and conferences on the cuisines of Latin countries, from the molés of Mexico to Peruvian ceviche and Brazilian feijoada.

Eat Look for the vintage white food truck complete with order window, often parked on the Pearl Brewery grounds, for a sugary treat. Saweet Cupcake Cart (210-215-0121, saweetcupcakes.com), run by two sisters-in-law, has chocolate peanut butter and bourbon vanilla cakes, topped with meltingly good buttercream frosting.
Il Sogno (100–200 E Grayson St., 210-223-3900) is an osteria-style Italian eatery that, despite its casual atmosphere, provides elegant surroundings and fresh-pasta specials. The same chef/owner, James Beard Award-nominated Andrew Weissman, also runs Sandbar Fish Market and Restaurant on site, plus the popular Sip Coffee & Espresso Bar in town.

Play The Twig bookstore (124–200 E Grayson St., 210-826-6411, thetwig.com) hosts a kids’ story hour every Friday morning at 10:30 called Miss Anastasia’s Wild and Wacky Pre-Weekend Storytime. Grown-ups can browse the Melissa Guerra Tienda de Cocina boutique (122–200 E Grayson St., 210-293-3983, melissaguerra.com), a well-stocked kitchen boutique with an emphasis on Latin tools (molcajetes spice grinders, paella pans from six to 36 inches) and ingredients (Mexican vanilla and agave syrup). We loved the motorcycle-style flame decals, designed to pimp your KitchenAid mixer ($36.95).

On Saturday mornings year-round, a farmers market encourages the 150-mile diet (everything’s bigger in Texas) with local vendors selling meat, cheese, honey, nuts, baked goods and preserves. The occasional cookbook swaps or culinary demos enliven the scene (pearlfarmers
market.com).

Stroll By foot on the new Museum Reach extension of San Antonio’s extensive River Walk trail system, it’s a pleasant 30-minute meander from downtown to the area. Watch for public art along the way, ranging from the subtle (like Stuart Allen’s low-key series of metal-screen panels called 29º 25’ 57" N / 98º 29’ 13" W and 29° 26’ 00" N / 98° 29’ 07" W, under McCullough Avenue) to the carnivalesque (Donald Lipski’s brightly coloured F.I.S.H. suspended from the I-35 underpass).

Stay The Watermark Hotel and Spa (212 West Crockett St., 866-605-1212, watermarkhotel.com) is intimate (98 rooms), centrally located and features the best of what might be called Texas-luxe: contemporary use of rich leather and dark wood married to arguably the best service in the state. Plus it’s only a stone’s throw from the Alamo-not that we’d recommend you do so. wl

For more information visit
traveltex.com or call 800-8888-TEX.