The Other Mexico

The country’s charms are many, but popularity has its drawbacks-like crowded beaches and muchos turistas. Here’s how to discover your own private Mexico.


BAJA BLISS
You like: Cabo San Lucas, for its stark desert-meets-sea beauty, clear water and fresh seafood.
But don’t love: High prices, crowded beaches and wet T-shirt contests.
Then try: Loreto.

This central Baja town is rustic and far from the college-crowd circuit. The abundant wildlife makes the snorkelling, sea kayaking and beachcombing some of the best in the world. Check out Posada de las Flores (posadadelasflores.com)-located across from Loreto’s historic church and just steps from shopping on the plaza (head to the Silver Desert for locally made handicrafts), this hacienda-style hotel is a great base. From here, head to Isla Coronado, where you can swim with the manta rays or spend the day watching dolphins and whales. Then tour inland to visit Mission San Javier. One of the oldest missions in the Californias, San Javier sits serene and empty until a December festival draws miracle-seeking pilgrims through mountain arroyos to its famed doors.

URBAN CHIC
You like: Mexico City, for its history, art and culture.
But don’t love: Kidnapping and breathing exhaust fumes.
Then try: Guanajuato.

The colonial city of Guanajuato sits in the mountains, five hours northwest of Mexico City by car (you can also fly into nearby Leon). It’s a city for meandering-and the winding, pedestrian-only callejones (alleyways) are lined with pastel-hued homes, plazas, galleries, Baroque churches and fabulous theatres, including the plush Teatro Juarez. It’s also the site of one of the richest silver finds in history-the inhabitants of Guanajuato used their wealth to build sumptuous mansions, many of which have been transformed into boutique inns such as Quinta Las Acacias (quintalasacacias.com). An annual October highlight is the International Cervantes Festival: named for the Spanish novelist, poet and playwright best known for Don Quixote, this gathering of world-class artists provides a cultural buffet of dance, music and performance art.

BEACH ESCAPE
You like: Mazatlan, for its friendly neighbourhoods and beachside setting.
But don’t love: Time-share salesmen.
Then try: San Carlos.

San Carlos is relatively new on the resort town scene-and its long stretches of empty beach feel like a well-kept secret. (Don’t miss a visit to Playa Algodones for a sunset margarita at the Soggy Peso Bar). Located a five-hour drive south of Tucson, San Carlos is a small town with great options for diving, fishing, kayaking and hiking. Marinaterra Resort (marinaterra.com) is the most central lodging, with simple rooms and dramatic views of the peaks of Cerro Tetakawi. Be sure to visit nearby Guaymas, a larger city that is pure Mexico-here you’ll find a lively malecon (seaside walkway) packed with evening events, as well as traditional markets selling a wide range of goods. On the way in to Guaymas, take a tour of the Perlas del Mar de Cortez pearl farm-these cultured black pearls are the same ones that European royals once coveted.

'60s COOL
You like: Acapulco, for its sultry weather and fun atmosphere.
But don’t love: Beheadings.
Then try: Barra de Navidad.

"Barra" to the locals, this little seaside town is just 40 minutes from Manzanillo but feels firmly stuck in the 1960s. Enhance the swinging vibe with a stay at the chic but off-grid CocoCabañas (ecocabanas
.com). It’s long been a holiday resort for Mexicans-you’ll still find families who bring their kids for their first-ever dip in the ocean. Try a shrimp molcajetes at Bay Alcatraz and then stay on for the low-key nightlife at Rey Momo. While most of your visit should be spent under a palapa sipping cerveza or swimming in the warm water, don’t miss taking a short side trip to La Manzanilla, where you’ll find a preserve for giant American crocodiles and some excellent art galleries. If you want a break from the sea, head inland to nearby Colima and visit the Pre-Columbian ruins of El Chanal and La Compana, then take in the evening festivities in the main plaza.

 

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