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Half Moon Bay & Pescadero
Stay Make your starting point Half Moon Bay, 30 minutes from
the airport but still a secluded, underrated gem of a town. Hunker down at the
Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay (1 Miramontes Point Rd., 650-712-7000, ritzcarlton.com)
which looks like a venerable, shingle-style Nantucket resort but actually opened
in 2001. It’s prettily perched among drifts of portulaca and poppies.
Play Golf is the draw here, with the old Links Course adjacent
to the Ritz originally designed by Arnold Palmer in 1973. The challenging Ocean
Course hosts the LPGA Samsung World Championship (halfmoonbaygolf.com).
Eat Navio restaurant at the Ritz serves a five-course pumpkin
tasting menu every October. So passionate is chef de cuisine Aaron Zimmer about
fresh, local food, he often sends his chefs out to pick produce. On Half Moon
Bay’s quaint Main Street hit Pasta Moon Ristorante (315 Main St., 650-726-5125,
pastamoon.com), where you can watch them make the delightfully eggy fresh linguini
that comes with tiny, sweet steamed clams. We loved the fritto misto’s crisp
calamari and slices of fried Meyer lemon with silken aioli.
Pit Stop Before heading down the coast, stop at Harley Farms
Goat Dairy (205 North St., Pescadero, 650-879-0480, harleyfarms.com), to buy cheeses,
like the edible flower-adorned Monet torte. Then pop into Arcangeli Grocery (287
Stage Rd., Pescadero, 650-879-0147, normsmarket.com) for a soft artichoke and
pesto foccacia loaf-perfect road fodder.
Santa Cruz
Stay Adobe on Green (103 Green St., 831-469-9866, adobeongreen.net)
is a tucked-away B&B where our cozy room had a four-poster bed and a pot-bellied
stove.
Eat If you’re hungry for more than continental breakfast,
walk a few blocks over to Center Street Grill (1001 Center St., 831-423-4745,
thecenterstreetgrill.com), which is run by Canadians and has a charming walled
patio and hearty breakfast and brunch fare. At the trippy, century-old restored
beach boardwalk (beachboardwalk.com), complete with a 1924 wooden roller coaster,
a 1911 carousel and a haunted house, sample what has been named the best corn
dog in the country at Surf City Grill (400 Beach St., 831-423-8337), also famous
for its deep-fried artichokes.
Play The funky, SoCal vibe here means dozens of beach volleyball
courts and a Surfing Museum (701 West Cliff Dr., 831-420-6289, santacruzsurfingmuseum.org)
in an old lighthouse staffed by rugged, retired boarders. Vinocruz (101-725 Front
St., 831-426-VINO, vinocruz.com), is a well-edited regional wine shop with exclusive
winemaker tastings, many from vineyards that aren’t normally open to the
public. Owner J.T. Correa says, "We have one of the most diverse wine regions
in the state but wineries are difficult to access." Just across from the
store is the Museum of Art and History (705 Front St., 831-429-1964, santacruzmah.org),
with a strong collection of Northern California artists. Enjoy a breather on the
sunny sculpture terrace.
Monterey & Salinas
Do The formerly humble sardine fishery immortalized by John Steinbeck
is now a tourist hub: Cannery Row’s strip of restaurants and shopping leads
to the famed Monterey Bay Aquarium (886 Cannery Row, 831-648-4800, mbayaq.org).
It not only has critter feedings for the kids but grown-up options like wine-and-sailing
adventures.
Eat The Aquarium’s sea-view Portola restaurant, where binoculars
and a wildlife identification card grace every table (Vancouver Aquarium’s
Ocean Wise is based on the Seafood Watch sustainable species program here), is
a surprisingly sophisticated option.
Play Ken Rauh and his staff at A Taste of Monterey (700 Cannery
Row, 831-646-5446, tastemonterey.com) will walk you through a regional wine tasting
of this unique terroir squeezed between two mountain ranges and cooled by ocean
breezes. There is a second Taste of Monterey wine shop in nearby Salinas, right
by the National Steinbeck Center (1 Main St., 831-796-3833, steinbeck.org), which
is surprisingly less a literary altar than a fascinating slice of Americana and
agricultural history.
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Stay The toniest digs in town are at the Relais & Chateâux
hotel L’Auberge Carmel (Monte Verde St. between Ocean and 7th Ave., 831-624-8578,
laubergecarmel.com). Its tiny, circa-1929 dining room has a prix fixe seasonal
menu ($90 for four courses) and impeccable service. We chose the nearby Tradewinds
Carmel (Mission St. at Third Ave., 831-624-2776, tradewindscarmel.com), lured
by its secluded, Buddha-protected meditation garden and a fireplace and calming,
trickling water features in the Balinese-inspired rooms.
Eat Sit at the counter at local favourite Katy’s Place
(Mission St. between 5th and 6th Ave., 831-624-0199, katysplacecarmel.com), an
alpine chalet outside and a lickety-split American diner on the inside. Over breakfast
read the Carmel Pine Cone weekly newspaper, where real estate transactions for
humble "cottages" (worth $5 or $6 million) are avidly reported.
Pit Stop Before you double back for the two-hour drive to SFO,
head a few minutes out of town to Carmel Valley Road. There are several wineries
nearby, including Château Julien (chateaujulien.com), a villa-style compound
that’s like a slice of France-try the 2006 Black Nova. Don’t
miss the great farm stand run by Earthbound Farm (ebfarm.com), the U.S.’s
biggest organic grower. Load up on cappuccinos, smoothies, veggies, produce, cold
cuts and fresh-picked wildflower bunches for a heavenly drive back up the coast.
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UNREAL ESTATE
California Dreamin’
312 West Carmel Valley Rd.,
Carmel-by-the-Sea
List Price: $30,000,000 Sq ft: Plenty.
Bedrooms/Bathrooms: As many as your heart desires.
Located in tony Carmel? Check. On 360 acres? Check. Complete with a mile and a
half of private shoreline? Again, check. Asking price $30,000,000? Nuts: we knew
there had to be a catch.
Still Cruisin’
318 West St., South Salinas
List Price: $469,785 Sq ft: 1,411
Bedrooms: 3 Bathrooms: 2
A rare 1920’s historic property in Salinas will transport you back to East
of Eden (set in Salinas by local boy John Steinbeck). This means great character-but
no air conditioning or covered garage.
Little Deuce Coup
7170 Pescadero Creek Rd., Pescadero
List Price: $399,000 Sq ft: 1,100
Bedrooms: 1 Bathrooms: 1
The most affordable house in Pescadero (also known as the cheapest listing), gets
you one bedroom and a septic system, but you’ll be living in one of Northern
California’s most idyllic towns.
Wipe Out
List Price: $69,000 Sq ft: 0
Bedrooms: 0 Bathrooms: 0
Only $69,000 for an ocean-view lot in Half-Moon Bay? The catch is that you can’t
build on it just yet, but if you have time and faith in the local government to
alter its designation, you may just end up with the steal of a lifetime. Or a
useless lot.
For statewide visitor’s guides, consult
visitcalifornia.com. For Half Moon Bay info, visit halfmoonbaychamber.org. Find
Santa Cruz visitors’ guides at santacruz.org and santacruzmuseums.org. For
Monterey, Salinas and Carmel-by-the-Sea (as well as Big Sur and Pebble Beach),
visit montereyinfo.org. |
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