Calistoga Ranch makes a relaxed home base for expoloring Sebastopol and its groovy environs.

NOT EVERYBODY IS GOING to be up for the weekly schedule of “laughter yoga” in the Sebastopol town square, but that’s Sonoma County for you. About a dozen kilometres from the Pacific, at the intersection of Interstate 12 and the Gravenstein Highway, Sebastopol is not only the resting place of Peanuts master Charles Schulz but seemingly of almost every cliché of what flaky small-town California is supposed to be about. From the ubiquitous acupuncture and Pilates studios to the vinyl record stores to the surprisingly wide availability of large tin dog sculptures, Sebastopol is all about the wacky West Coast vibe, man. Here’s where to find it.

What to Do
Perhaps nothing captures small-town bliss better than the simply unparalleled California-style Sebastopol Farmers’ Market (Downtown Plaza at McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-522-9305) Here you can get all the regular local weekly shopping necessities—crystals, organic mushrooms, hand-woven baskets and other essentials—and also watch red-faced beat cops giving jaywalking tickets to Santa Rosa dudes sporting mutton chops and Capri pants. It’s just like that here.

Where to Eat and Drink
If you fatigue of all the grooviness on offer (and be warned, visitors, there will be a band playing fuzz-boxed dance grooves in the town square 24/7 from your arrival to whenever you decide you’ve had enough), you could always head up the Gravenstein Highway to check out the farm stands and the regional boozeries. In this latter category, do try crisp and yummy and cheap Ace Cider at the Ace in the Hole Cider Pub (3100 Gravenstein Hwy. N, Sebastopol, 707-829-1223, acecider.com), which has live music Friday and Monday nights.

Drop in at Merry Edwards Vineyards (2959 Gravenstein Hwy. N, Sebastopol, 707-823-7466 or 888-388-9050, merryedwards.com) for their Russian Valley Pinot Noir, which is lush, jammy and outrageously expensive.
A pretty drive towards the coast will bring you to the spectacular cheesy offerings of the Cowgirl Creamery (80 Fourth St., Point Reyes Stn., 415-663-9335, cowgirlcreamery.com) and the Hog Island Oyster Company, home of bivalves that you can eat fresh or grilled (20215 State Route 1, Marshall, 415-663-9218, hogislandoysters.com).
Drive the picturesque coastline and try to remember what the world was like before foodies took over everything. But when you return to Sebastopol, even if you feel full, you must dine at the Michelin-starred K&L Bistro (119 Main St., Sebastopol, 707-823-6614). Not only can you BYOB to this quaint French room, you can scarf high-end bistro yummies like salad Lyonnaise, crab cakes and boudin blanc.

Where to Stay
We crashed at the Solage Calistoga (755 Silverado Tr., Calistoga, 866 942 7442, solagecalistoga.com), 22 acres of eco-luxury in nearby Napa. The 89 loft-like studios were created using reclaimed local wood products from the region. A full-service spa, yoga classes and complimentary bikes to explore neighbouring wineries are among the perks. Solbar serves local and organic fare from menus that change seasonally.

Luxury resort Calistoga Ranch (580 Lommel Rd., Calistoga, 707-254-2800, calistogaranch.com) is hidden away in a private canyon in the Upper Napa Valley, with 46 private lodges made of local cedar. What sets this resort apart is its private vineyard: tour the wine caves or take daily seminars. Executive chef Aaron Wright brings his “land to table” concept to Calistoga Ranch’s restaurant, the Lakehouse.

In Sonoma, choose the Hotel Healdsburg (25 Matheson St., Healdsburg, 800-889-7188, hotelhealdsburg.com), one of the most romantic stays in wine country. Beds are so plush you’ll want to swan-dive into them, but a small-but-perfect lap pool and Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen restaurant are good reasons to leave the room. wl

For more information see visitcalifornia.com and sonoma.com.