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Millions of years ago, massive lava flows and ice age floods carved the Cascade Mountains and rejigged the Columbia River to its current course, leaving fertile soil all along its banks.
That geological legacy shapes the rich food and wine scene that follows the river’s banks today. Access it through a river cruise that stops at culinary, historical and geographic hotspots on the way, or by driving a modern, modified Lewis-and-Clark-style discovery route along the Columbia.
Locks
Ships entering one of four lock systems on this stretch of the Columbia River slowly rise as much as 35 metres (at the John Day Lock, one of the world’s longest vertical lifts).
Even those not fascinated by locks or giant turbines will appreciate that the Bonneville Dam Visitor Center chronicles how migrating salmon survive predators, natural hazards and the perils of the dam itself-a lesson in food sustainability (509-427-4281 or 541-374-8820; access from Washington and Oregon sides of the dam). An indoor, glass-walled portion allows you to view salmon during migratory months.
Get a full picture-and a full stomach-of sustainable seafood at the Seafood Consumer Center in Astoria, Oregon (2021 Marine Dr., Astoria, 503-338-6523, seafoodschool.org). A cooking class or demo with chef Eric Jenkins might include crispy fried oysters, cedar-plank salmon, crab cakes and sesame-crusted tuna. Find kegs (but no barrels) of excellent microbrew at the Fort George Brewery + Public House, in a 1924 building on the site where Astoria was founded (1483 Duane St., Astoria, 503-325-PINT). Quaff a Quick Wit Belgian-style whitbeer or a non-alcoholic wasabi ginger ale alongside the devoted Columbia Gorge windsurfers that make up much of Astoria’s population.
Crops
Hood River, Oregon, is a fruit-growing hub, producing about a third of the pears in the U.S. At the Fruit Company (2900 Van Horn Dr., Hood River, 800-387-3100, thefruitcompany.com), family run for three generations, tour orchards where their famous, juicy Webster Comice pears are grown, shop for treats like chocolate-covered blueberries and see luxe fruit and cheese baskets assembled.
On the Washington side, the Chukar Cherries gift shop is a must-stop (320 Wine Country Rd., Prosser, 509-786-2055, chukar.com), for gift-bagged and -boxed pinot noir or cabernet chocolate cherries and highly addictive chocolate honey pecans. Pick up a wallet-size card on pairing Chukar chocolates with some of the local Washington wines.
From mid-June to September, Westerners are accustomed to seeing Walla Walla onions land in our grocery stores. These sweet spheres, originally planted from Corsican seeds a century ago, have to originate from a small, federally protected growing area in order to be called Walla Walla sweet onions. (Think wine region denomination.) Find them at the local Walla Walla farmers’ market starting in May (gowallawallafarmersmarket.com); an annual onion festival every July includes a barbecue competition, chefs’ demonstrations and a recipe contest (sweetonions.org).
Barrels
Some of the best Washington wine areas-Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and the actual Walla Walla appellation-are clustered around the quaint town of Walla Walla. You could sample cases worth of local stuff at a dozen downtown tasting rooms alone; don’t miss trying the Camille blend at the Nicholas Cole tasting room, with its cool modern wood-slat wall made of barrel staves (229 E. Main St., Walla Walla, 509-525-0608, nicholascolecellars.com). Some of the area’s best restaurants are here, too, like Backstage Bistro (230 E. Main St., 509-526-0690,
backstage-bistro.com).
Our favourite winery tours in the Walla Walla region include Three Rivers Winery (5641 W. Hwy. 12, Walla Walla, 509-526-9463, threeriverswinery.com), which has an excellent tasting bar (try the 2007 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer) and a shop stuffed with wine paraphernalia; Terra Blanca Winery (34715 N. De-Moss Rd., Benton City, 509-588-6082, terrablanca.com), with the first underground barrel-aging cave system in Washington; and Basel Cellars Estate Winery (2901 Old Milton Hwy., Walla Walla, 888-259-WINE, baselcellars.com), where you can get a real taste of the winemaking life by renting an entire 14,000-square-foot, eight-guestroom villa (gourmet kitchen, indoor hot tub and outdoor lap pool included) for just $2,400 (U.S.) a night.
Just outside Portland, Washington County has a brand new cycle or drive Vineyard and Valley Scenic Tour Route (visitwash
ingtoncounty.com) that takes in wineries and u-pick farms, culture and history, historic hotels and notable eateries.
Any route you travel, by any mode of transport, your discoveries are bound to be delicious.
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BY LAND OR BY... RIVER
There’s more than one way
to explore the Columbia River area-check out these cruise
and drive options.
Cruise
Cruise West offers its Taste of the Pacific Northwest trip on the Spirit of Discovery
(cruisewest.com, 888-851-8133) in April, September and October. River cruises are smoother than the high seas and on smaller, more navigable ships (they can also be noisier; bring earplugs). Fewer passengers mean more intimate shore excursions. And, in the case of an expedition-style cruise like this one, dress codes are blissfully casual and staff know their subjects-from geology to history to culture-intimately. From $3,299 to $4,849 (U.S.) per person, including taxes, port charges, onboard fees, gratuities and all shore excursions and meals (alcohol not included).
Stay
Start or extend your trip at Hotel Modera (515 SW Clay St., Portland, 503-484-1084, hotelmodera.com), a chic and affordable new design hotel. Cozy up around the outdoor firepits and dramatic "living wall" in the courtyard; complimentary continental breakfast and evening wine tastings keep the lobby lively. Rates from $139 (U.S.).
Hotel Elliott (357 12th St., Astoria, 877-378-1924, hotelelliott.com) is the gem of Astoria, located in a century-old building with modern rooms and creature comforts like heated bathroom floors and cedar closets. Rates from $119 (U.S.).
Columbia Gorge Hotel
(4000 Westcliff Dr., Hood River, 800-345-1921, columbiagorgehotel.com) was built on a cliff in 1921 by a local timber baron and has housed everyone from stars of old-time Hollywood to presidents. Try Pacific Northwest cuisine at Simon’s. Rates from $199 (U.S.).
Marcus Whitman Hotel
(6 W Rose St., Walla Walla,
866-826-9422, marcuswhitmanhotel.com) is Walla Walla’s luxe stay, offering a Touch of the Grape package (from $209 U.S.), a wine country cycling-themed stay (from $134 U.S.) and winemakers’ dinners. |
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