Bonterra Vineyards in Mendocino was among the first to prove that organic practices can result in exceptional wines. It’s U.K. Soil Association-certified and the fresh lemon-lime of its 2005 chardonnay ($20) and the ripe, round, spicy 2003 syrah ($22) show success. Sustainability is also a priority of California pioneers like Benziger Family Winery, Robert Mondavi Winery and Frey and Wente Vineyards.

At Washington’s certified organic Badger Mountain Vineyard, Greg Powers, whose father and vineyard founder Bill was a driving force for organic wine, sums it up: “It was very hard to promote organic initially, but now consumers are more concerned about what they put in their bodies.” Their Vintner’s Estate certified organics include a lovely 2004 Seve white composed of 60 percent chenin blanc, 32 percent semillon and eight percent riesling ($9).

Organically grown grapes show up in Snoqualmie Vineyards’ Naked wines—though the delicious 2006 riesling and 2006 chardonnay ($12) can’t be called “organic” because winemaker Joy Andersen adds about 60 parts per million of sulphur dioxide to keep it fresh (forbidden by American organic regulations, but allowed in Europe). The industry needs a global standard!

Biodynamic is a growing method that takes into account the seasons and our solar system. Christophe Baron of Walla Walla’s cult Cayuse Vineyards has some dynamite biodynamic-influenced syrahs. All regions of France seem to be on the organic and biodynamic bandwagons, with Clos de la Coulée de Serrant in the Loire; M. Chapoutier in the Rhône Valley; Lafon, Leflaive and Leroy in Burgundy; Zind Humbrechts in Alsace; and Jacquesson in Champagne, among other innovators.

Chile’s good-value organic wines include two from Adobe—a chardonnay 2005 ($14) and syrah 2004 ($15)—and also the unique 2004 Novas Carmenère cabernet sauvignon ($17). Spain has an eco-friendly 2004 Pares Balta Blanc de Pacs from Penedes ($17) and a chocolatey-tasting 2005 Finca Luzon red blend from Jumilla ($15) worth exploring.
In Canada, Ontario’s Frogpond Farm wines are certified organic but hard to find. Environmentally friendly Malivoire makes good chardonnays and a rosé.

The B.C. Wine Institute’s Lisa Cameron kindly surveyed members’ organic initiatives: [1] Summerhill Pyramid Winery claims to be “Canada’s largest organic vineyard,” and [2] Hainle and Deep Creek Wine Estate say they’re “the only vineyard in Canada that makes all of its wine varietals organically.”

[3] Rollingdale Winery grows organically; [4] Burrowing Owl Estate Winery has adopted a number of eco-friendly policies; Tantalus Vineyards is planning an environmentally friendly new building and looking into a biodynamic model. Barking Dog is Vancouver Island’s first certified organic vineyard, and [5] Glenugie Winery and Lotusland Vineyards in the Lower Mainland both grow grapes organically.
Now if only we could buy these bottles at the local market with our organic produce…