Dining on the patio at the Post Hotel // Photograph by: Michael Soroka

"Who comes to our restaurant depends on whose economy is having a good year," says Trudy Allan, co-owner of Coyotes Southwestern Grill, to explain the challenges of running a restaurant in a resort town. "Japan? Germany? The U.S.? Who’s up this year? Who’s down? Hopefully someone’s doing well." "But our strongest support comes from Calgary," adds partner Kathy Johnson. "That’s who we see the most." After 18 years in the business, the two women know what they‘re talking about. Attracting consistent traffic in Banff is tricky. But, for over a century, restaurateurs have been drawn to the mountains—and to the tourists who come when the economy is good. And these days, those visitors have myriad dining options. For many years Banff had a large but unbalanced dining scene, filled with high-end, often hotel-situated restaurants and a number of cheaper and chain-ish places. There was a gap in the middle of the market that small, independent and multicultural restaurants would typically fill. That was partly the result of doing business in the restricted development zone of the National Park, where limited real estate and limited staff (Banff has only about 8,000 permanent residents) can mean high operating costs. Combine that with the vagaries of global economies, and the restaurant business becomes precarious. But the mountain lifestyle of skiing, hiking and biking remains attractive. So restaurateurs like Allan and Johnson and many others are making a good living and a good life in Banff—and along the way they have created a rich and diverse dining scene that belies the small size of the community.

JOHN GILCHRIST’S TOP BANFF-AREA EATS

Bow Valley Grill // Photograph by Michael Soroka

BOW VALLEY GRILL (Banff Springs Hotel, 405 Spray Ave., fairmont.com/banffsprings) The stylish but simple all-purpose restaurant at the Springs satisfies, from the great breakfast buffet to cozy dinners for two.

BAKER CREEK BISTRO (13 km. east of Lake Louise on the Bow Valley Parkway, bakercreekbistro.com) The log-cabin-in-a-forest setting is almost as sumptuous as chef Shelley Robinson’s food. Note: check for seasonal hours.

BARPA BILL’S (223 Bear St., barpabills.com) This tiny Greek joint makes the best souvlaki this side of Athens, and it layers its Barpa burger with enough garlic to keep most bears away.

THE BISON (211 Bear St., thebison.ca) Top-drawer mountain food from this top-floor restaurant. Bison carpaccio and bison short ribs are just two of the standouts on this meaty menu.

COYOTES SOUTHWESTERN GRILL (206 Caribou St., coyotesbanff.com) Blue-corn chicken enchiladas and orange-chipotle prawns bring Santa Fe flavours that fit right into Banff’s mountain setting.

LE BEAUJOLAIS (Banff Ave. at Buffalo St., 2nd floor, lebeaujolaisbanff.com) Classic French cuisine and a fine view of the Bow River are served up in an elegant room poised over Banff Avenue.

OWL ST. KITCHEN (100 Owl St., owlstkitchen.wordpress.com) Head out to Banff’s Industrial Compound for outstanding banana bread, big sandwiches on housemade bread and lovely soups. Decor? No. Quality and price? The best.

PAD THAI (Clock Tower Village Mall, 110 Banff Ave., 403-762-4911) This little spot is a favourite of locals, who are often well-versed in the qualities of Thai food. The food is legit.

POST HOTEL (200 Pipestone Rd., Lake Louise, posthotel.com) Hands down the best food in Lake Louise and one of the best wine cellars in the country (check out the Wine Spectator awards) in a loggy, lodgy setting.

SLEEPING BUFFALO (Buffalo Mountain Lodge, Tunnel Mountain Rd., crmr.com/buffalo/dining) Head up Tunnel Mountain to the restaurant that created Rocky Mountain cuisine. What’s that mean? Think lots of game, fresh regional fruits and vegetables and freshwater fish.

THREE RAVENS (Banff Centre, 107 Tunnel Mountain Rd., banffcentre.ca/dining) The Banff Centre kicks it up a notch at Three Ravens, with rabbit consommé with carrot and turnip pearls, pomegrante-glazed duck breast and great views (which is saying something)

TICINO (High Country Inn, 415 Banff Ave., ticinorestaurant.com) You’re in the mountains, so what’s better than a classic Swiss fondue and some bündnerfleisch (air-dried beef)? wl