food of kings
Caviar as forbidden fruit
Regal caviar was once reserved for Persian rulers and Russian czars; the best still comes from the roe of Caspian Sea sturgeon. Once so plentiful in North America that bars served their eggs as a free snack, sturgeon have been overfished almost to extinction; now only catch-and-release wild sturgeon fishing is legal. Globally, caviar’s reputation is tainted. The best is harvested from slow-maturing sturgeon as old as 150 years and pollution and overfishing have taken their toll on the species. Mike McDermid of the Vancouver-based sustainable seafood group Ocean Wise advises choosing sustainably farmed caviar over wild and avoiding the traditional Caspian Sea beluga (creamy and grey), osetra (firm and gold to brown) and sevruga (small, creamy grey eggs).
our experts Scott McTaggart, owner, Fusion Grill, Winnipeg; Joe Srahulek, executive chef, Sutton Place Hotel, Edmonton; and Lee Parsons and Brendan Jones, chef and bar manager, Wedgewood Hotel, Vancouver.
where to find it Trout caviar courtesy Mikuni Wild Harvest; kelp "caviar" courtesy Le Gavroche; whitefish and northern pike caviar courtesy Manitoba Freshwater Fish Marketing.

Grade A Eggs
Entertaining with Caviar
choose Varieties with low or no salt (look on the can or jar label for the word "malossol") and dye content.
portion Allow 30 to 50 grams per person.
accompaniments Buckwheat blinis (see recipe at westernliving.ca) or toast points, crème fraîche and finely chopped chives, shallots or parsley. Smoked salmon and boiled eggs (quail or duck) can round out the feast.
nutrition A typical 50-gram serving of caviar has just 130 calories and about 8 grams of fat, and is low in cholesterol but high in sodium. Not only does it contain vitamins A, B, C and D and beneficial fish oils, it’s high in acetylcholine, which reportedly can increase the body’s tolerance to alcohol.

Roe, Roe, Roe
Five Caviars to Try
Manitoba, Alberta, the Northwest Territories and British Columbia produce delicious caviar from local species. Here are five non-traditional caviars well worth a try.
salmon caviar B.C.’s big, bright coral-coloured roe (known in sushi bars as ikura) usually comes from pink or chum species. About $10 for 100 grams.
trout caviar At Vancouver’s C Restaurant, chef Quang Dang uses a sustainable, orange trout roe (smaller than salmon caviar) raised in artesian spring water at Larry Albright’s farm. $67 for 100 grams. Mikuni Wild Harvest sells a Tahitian vanilla-flavoured steelhead caviar. $17 for 115 grams.
kelp "caviar" Made from algae, this product comes in different colours and sizes to simulate real caviar. CaviArt and Sea-Gem are among the commercial brands served at restaurants like Vancouver’s The Flying Tiger and Le Gavroche. About $8 for 100 grams.
whitefish (golden) caviar Manitoba’s northern lakes yield a mild golden caviar; Scott McTaggart of Winnipeg’s Fusion Grill folds it into creamy potato salad. (See recipe at westernliving.ca.) About $30 for 100 grams.
northern pike caviar This year, Manitoba’s Freshwater Fish Marketing Corporation introduced this popular new product. "The taste is subtle, clean and fresh," says FFMC’s Jay Middagh of the golden, almost iridescent eggs. About $30 for 100 grams.-J.S.

aw, shucks
An oyster-shucking primer
The only thing we don’t love about oysters is that they’re so hard to get out. Before taking shucking knife in hand, we asked the best in the West, including champion shucker "Oyster Bob" from Joe Fortes in Vancouver, for their top tips.
1 Put a folded towel in your hand (left, if you’re right-handed) to protect it; wear a leather glove (like an old golf glove) for extra protection.
2 Place an oyster in your left hand, flat-side up, and steady it with your thumb.
3 Find the blunt end of the oyster, where there will be a small separation in the shell.
4 Run the shucking knife around the top of the shell to cut the adductor muscle.
5 Remove the top shell and discard.
6 Run the knife around bottom to cut the lower muscle.
7 Remove any shell fragments from inside.
8 Without losing any of the liquor, turn the oyster over to show its more attractive side. Serve on the half shell.
our experts Steve Edwards, restaurant director, Araxi, Whistler; Dave Craggs, chef and partner, Ferris’ Grill and Oyster Bar, Victoria; Robert LeCrom, head chef, Fairmont Hotel Vancouver; Bryan Fallwell, owner and manager, Billingsgate Fish Markets; Josh Anker, chef, Long Beach Lodge, Tofino; "Oyster Bob" Skinner, Joe Fortes, Vancouver.

pearls of wisdom
Entertaining with oysters
choose Oysters that are firmly closed, with a flat top and a deep cup. They must be fresh and alive. (Tap on the shell: a hollow sound is bad.) When opened, the oyster should look plump, firm and clean, with plenty of clear (not milky) liquor inside.
portion Large oysters, 3 to 6 per person; small oysters, up to 12 per person.
serve Shucked, on the half shell. A bed of ice, seaweed or rock salt makes a dramatic presentation. (For the raw-phobic, grill oysters in the shell for 3 to 5 minutes or bake them in Oysters Rockefeller-type preparations.)
accompaniments Lemon wedges, freshly grated horseradish and mignonette (see recipes at westernliving.ca). Though Tabasco is popular, many experts say it kills the taste of the oyster.
nutrition One cup of oyster meat has just 169 calories, 3 grams of fat (drained) and nearly 18 grams of protein. Oysters contain vitamins A and C and are high in iron and zinc, which Vancouver dietician Patricia Chuey says is good for the blood and energy levels (and, incidentally, strong fingernails) and boosts immunity.

go west
Five oysters to try
Washington chef Greg Atkinson coined the term "merroir" (similar to wine’s terroir) to describe the local flavour that characterizes oyster varieties; factors such as ocean temperature and time of year they’re harvested heavily influence the taste. Try these five Pacific varieties.
summer breeze Raised at a Baynes Sound farm, these have ruffled shells and grey meat with black mantles (folds of skin at the edges.) They taste of salty cucumber with seaweed, herbal and mineral notes. About $7 for a dozen.
royal courtesan Brent Petkau’s passion inspired his nickname and company name, The Oyster Man. His small and plump Cortes Island variety has a dark mantle and very hard shell. Raw, they taste clean and rich, finishing with mineral notes; Petkau also sells them smoked and canned. $100 for five dozen (minimum order).
kusshi The shells of these Deep Bay oysters are thick from an aggressive tumbling so the meat stays small and sweet. Clean, mild flavours (cucumber, melon) and small size make them perfect for beginners. About $15 for a dozen.
stellar bay Like a Kusshi, but handled differently to allow little room for the liquor (sea water) in the shell, resulting in a meatier, creamy oyster. Notes of cucumber, melon and green apple keep the taste smooth. About $12 a dozen.
fanny bay Available frozen with the top shell removed, these are a popular restaurant and buffet choice. These Baynes Sound creatures come in a variety of sizes and have a creamy texture with mineral notes and a cucumber finish. About $8 a dozen.-C.A.

RECIPES

Buckwheat Blinis
By chef Joe Srahulek, Sutton Place Hotel, Edmonton
3/4 cup milk
1 package active dry yeast
1/2 cup buckwheat flour
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 pinch sugar
1 pinch salt
2 large eggs, separated
2 tbsp butter

In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat milk until scalded. Remove from heat and cool until lukewarm. Add yeast to milk. Set aside.
Combine flours, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl and whisk in egg yolks and half of melted butter. Combine with yeast mixture and let rest at room temperature for 45–60 minutes.
In a large mixing bowl, whip egg whites until stiff. Fold into batter.
To cook blinis, heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add butter and heat until melted. Drop approximately 1 tbsp batter in pan for each blini. Cook until bubbles break surface, then flip to cook the other side for 1 minute. Serve immediately topped with crème fraîche and caviar.
Makes 15 to 20 blinis.

Northern Potato Salad with Caviar
By Scott McTaggart, Fusion Grill, Winnipeg
6 large russet potatoes, cubed to 1-inchsize
1 1/2 cups sour cream
3/4 cup golden caviar
Fleur de sel
White pepper, coarsely ground

In a large saucepan, boil water and add potatoes. Boil 15–20 minutes, until firm but tender. Cool and refrigerate briefly.
Fold sour cream into cooled potatoes. Gently fold in caviar. Lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Horseradish Lemon Crème Fraîche
By Manny Ferreira, Le Gavroche, Vancouver
1 1/2 cups heavy cream (around 36%)
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 tsp freshly grated horseradish
1 lemon, juiced

To make crème fraîche, mix cream and buttermilk in glass bowl. Cover with a clean cloth andstore in a warm area for 24 hours. Stir. Refrigerate.
Combine horseradish with crème fraîche and lemon juice. Serve with freshly shucked oysters; garnish with kelp "caviar."
Makes 30 servings.

Oyster and Fireball Stew with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Fresh Savory
By chef Timothy May, Clayoquot Wilderness Resort
12 large oysters, in shell
Olive oil, for sautéing
1 large onion, diced
4 celery stalks, diced
1 carrot, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb chanterelle mushrooms, sliced
1 tbsp tomato paste
4 oz Dr. McGillicuddy’s Fireball liqueur
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Fresh savory, chopped
1 L fish stock (or substitute vegetable stock)

Preheat barbecue or oven to 450ºF. Wash oyster shells and place oysters in oven or barbecue until shells split open. Remove oysters from heat and cool. Remove oyster meat from shells.
Heat a large covered stockpot over medium heat and sweat onions, celery, carrot and garlic, covered, until transparent. Add chanterelles and sauté until liquid is rendered from mushrooms. Add tomato paste and Fireball liqueur; stir to deglaze pan, scraping up browned bits. Add stock and bring to simmer. Add oyster meat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, then add fresh savory.
Makes 4 servings.

Oysters with Parmesan, Truffle and Bacon
By chef Josh Anker, Long Beach Lodge, Tofino
3 slices double-smoked bacon
4 cups water
3 shallots, sliced
3 garlic cloves, pressed
1 tsp chili flakes
300 g parmesan cheese rinds
2 kaffir lime leaves
1 stalk lemongrass, whole
2/3 cup truffle oil
3 tbsp white truffle vinegar
1 egg
1 pinch salt
20 oysters, shucked
Fresh chives, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Cook bacon in a skillet over medium heat until most fat is rendered. Cut each slice into 4 pieces. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place bacon on pan. Top with another piece of parchment paper and another baking sheet. Place ovenproof weights (such as pots) on top of pans. Bake for 20 minutes or until crisp. Cool on paper towels.
In a lidded skillet, combine shallots, garlic cloves and chili flakes and sweat, covered, over medium-low heat until onions are translucent. Add water, parmesan rinds, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth and return to simmer.
Heat a saucepan or double boiler half-full of water over medium heat until simmering. Combine truffle oil, truffle vinegar, egg and a few drops of water in a stainless steel mixing bowl or top of double boiler. Heat over simmering water, whisking constantly, until lightly thickened and frothy.
Place oysters in simmering parmesan broth for 2-3 minutes, or until poached but still soft. Place each oyster on a bacon chip. Spoon some truffle froth on top. Garnish with fresh chive.
Makes 20 appetizer servings.

Passionfruit and Champagne Granité
By chef Josh Anker, Long Beach Lodge, Tofino
2 cups water
1 tbsp sugar
4 passionfruits, pulped
2 750 ml bottles champagne or sparkling wine
5 lemons, juiced

Combine water, sugar and passionfruit pulp in a saucepan. Warm gently over medium-low heat, mixing with immersion blender, until heated. Lightly push the mixture through a strainer. Cool.
In a mixing bowl, add champagne and lemon juice to fruit mixture. Place in a shallow, freezerproof dish. Freeze for several hours or overnight, breaking mixture up with a fork to achieve even consistency. (When all liquid is frozen, it should resemble flakes of ice.)
Serve as a topping for freshly shucked oysters.
Makes 30 servings.

Elderberry Mignonette
By chef Josh Anker, Long Beach Lodge, Tofino
2/3 cup elderberry flower concentrate
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup banyuls vinegar
1 tbsp shallot, minced
1 lemon, juiced
Combine all ingredients. Serve on freshly shucked oysters.
Makes 30 servings.

Raspberry Mignonette
By chef Dave Craggs, Ferris’ Grill & Oyster Bar, Victoria
2 shallots, finely minced
1 lemon, juiced and zested
Black pepper, freshly ground (about 30 turns of a grinder)
Pinch sea salt
1 cup raspberry vinegar
Dash Tabasco
Combine all ingredients and let sit 1 hour. Serve on freshly shucked oysters.
Makes 24 servings.

Spicy Cucumber Mignonette
By chef Dave Craggs, Ferris’ Grill & Oyster Bar, Victoria
1/2 hothouse cucumber, peeled and diced fine
1 cup rice wine vinegar
1 shallot, minced
2 tbsp pickled ginger, minced
Black pepper, freshly ground (about 15 turns of a grinder)
2 tbsp cilantro, chopped
1 small red Thai chili, diced
Combine all ingredients and serve as a topping for freshly shucked oysters. Makes 24 servings.

Fusion Royale Champagne Cocktail
By Scott McTaggart, Fusion Grill, Winnipeg
750 ml bottle sparkling wine (preferably Sumac Ridge Stellar’s Jay)
375 ml bottle icewine (preferably Inniskillin Vidal)
Preserved Bing cherries
Fill champagne flutes 3/4 full of sparkling wine. Add a dash of icewine to each. Drop in a cherry.
Makes 6 servings.

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