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The mnemonic device for remembering the rum punch recipe is
deceptively simple: one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong and four of weak.
Within this sing-song recipe exists a world of variation. Are the limes for the
sour freshly squeezed, is the sweet syrup commercial or homemade, refined or raw
sugar, and as for the strong, is it Cockspur Old Gold or Mount Gay? These questions
are the subject of heated debate in Barbados, where rum punch is serious business.
Cutters of Barbados
Lore Owners Roger and Kim Goddard spent years perfecting their
rum punch recipe before offering it for sale at this gourmet deli (St. Philip,
246-423-0611, oms.bb).
Setting A bright yellow house on the main road leading to the
Crane Resort. Clean, modern and simple inside with a large counter bustling with
food, a few shelves, some very good wine and wireless internet access.
Punch A master class in rum punch. Exquisitely balanced, powerful
and chock full of freshly grated nutmeg, which adds a satisfying textural element.
This is the gold medallist.
Crane Beach
Lore Consistently recognized as one of the best beaches in the
world and a favourite of stentorian hedonist and famed Speedo-wearer Robin Leach.
The beach is beside the luxurious Crane Resort (St. Philip, 246-423-6220, thecrane.com)
and is open to the public.
Setting An immaculate stretch of pink sand gently massaged by
frothing waves and the footprints of frolicking beauties on the island’s
southeast coast. A few entrepreneurial Rastas have erected a bright blue hut where
the beach meets the jungle.
Punch Potent and dangerously thirst-quenching. Cliff-jumping
is not recommended after two of these, but may be inevitable.
Cobbler’s Cove
Lore A turreted pink English-style country house originally built
by a plantation owner looking for somewhere private to change before swimming,
and now a Relais & Chateaux property (St. Peter, 246-422-2291, cobblerscove.com).
Setting The tasteful open-air bar sits directly in front of the
beach and beside the swimming pool.
Punch The lack of nutmeg is almost made up for by the maraschino
cherry and orange slice garnish. The punch is mild, refreshing and well-balanced,
but it could use a little bitterness.
Lone Star
Lore Co-owner Olivier Rey Lore’s former garage is now one
of the most stylish addresses on the exclusive west coast (Mount Standfast, St.
James, 246-419-0599, thelonestar.com).
Setting The sprawling deck leads right onto the beach, and early
in the evening all is tranquil. But by dinnertime the place starts to fill and
at night it’s downright raucous.
Punch Served in plastic cups for those sitting beachside with
a maraschino cherry garnish, it is a touristy punch: very juicy, a bit on the
sweet side and altogether lacking in nutmeg.
Daphne’s
Lore Tropical outpost of the fashionable British restaurant (St.
James, 246-432-2731, daphnesbarbados.com).
Setting Thronged with air-kissers sporting formidable tans and
obscure British reality-series celebrities.
Punch Extravagantly garnished with both an orange slice and a
maraschino, it strikes a delicate balance between potent and subtle. As one slightly
thoughtful, slightly debauched patron put it: "promiscuous yet not slutty."
The Cliff
Lore Counting royalty among its regulars, this is widely regarded
as the best restaurant in Barbados (St. James, 246-432-1922, thecliffbarbados.com).
Setting Tables and torches are
carefully placed on the edge of a dramatic coral cliff beside an illuminated stretch
of turquoise ocean.
Punch A veritable salad of fruit garnish-apple, oranges
and maraschino-gilds a nicely bitter punch served in a tall glass. There’s
a refreshing, pronounced bitterness and a good dose of nutmeg, but like most of
its patrons, it’s a little too refined and a bit weak.
Oistins
Lore Home to the Friday night fish-fry, this village (in the
island’s southwest) knows how to throw a party.
Setting A paved area next to the ocean about an acre in size,
filled with brightly painted shacks serving up grilled flying fish, chicken and
traditional Bajan delicacies. Shiny new digs haven’t undermined the essential
meaty smokiness and loud music that gives Oistins its character.
Punch Most of the shacks offer some form of punch, but the most
pugilistic ones are generally poured from large plastic jugs. Strong and bitter,
these are punches with one thing on their minds.
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RECIPE
Bajan Rum Punch
By Chris Johns, inspired by Cutters
One of Sour
8 limes, juiced to equal 1 cup
Two of Sweet
1 cup unrefined brown sugar
1 cup water
In a medium saucepan, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly,
until sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool. Yields 2 cups.
Three of Strong
3 cups dark rum, preferably Cockspur Old Gold or another
spicy, mildly sweet and woody rum
Four of Weak
4 cups ice
Season with four or five good splashes of bitters and grate 1 whole nutmeg into
the batch. A maraschino cherry is the traditional garnish, although orange or
lemon slices, frozen watermelon (or nothing at all) are also acceptable.
Makes 8 servings.
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