Eat, Play, Love  

Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala devise recipes meant to help navigate the
ups and downs of family life

 



Curried lamb can be made on the stovetop or in the oven, depending on your schedule.

Earlier this year we took a friend to Vij’s, the iconic Vancouver eatery considered by many-including New York Times reviewer Sam Sifton-to be the best Indian restaurant on the continent. She was celebrating a landmark birthday, and it was my job to line up at 5 o’clock to secure a spot in the first sitting. (No one, but no one, can make a reservation, so standing in the rain with Elvis Costello, the cast of Twilight and an NHL defenceman is just part of the deal.) At 5:30, after the doors opened, I phoned the friend. "Thank you so much for this," she gushed. "Vij’s is on my list of things to do before I die." 

"I hope you can hang on for another couple hours," I had to tell her, "because we can’t get in till 8."

That’s the way it is at Vij’s, which helps account for the reception that greeted owners Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala’s first book of recipes four years ago. Vij’s: Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine sold a blockbuster 60,000 copies and naturally inspired thoughts of a follow-up. "The obvious thing was to do an ‘at home’ book," says Meeru, sitting with Vikram at the long dining table in the couple’s home, a thoroughly and thoughtfully renovated old-timer located a 10-minute walk from the restaurant. "But," she says, "it couldn’t have happened until we got this table."

Vij’s at Home: Relax, Honey (Douglas & McIntyre) did happen, and the dining table’s pivotal role is explained in a touching and entertaining introduction written by Meeru and vetted by the entire family. The couple and tweenage daughters Nanaki and Shanik carry on a complicated existence. For five and sometimes six days a week, Vikram is away from the house from morning till night, working the rooms at Vij’s and next-door neighbour Rangoli, while overseeing a rapidly expanding food empire that will soon place the Vij’s line of frozen entrees throughout Canada and the U.S. (After that: the flagship restaurant moves to expansive new digs near City Hall.)

That leaves Meeru with much of the childcare and meal making-even as she runs the all-female kitchens at both restaurants, writes for various media outlets and promotes community gardens and other food-related initiatives. All of this means that the couple faces serious time constraints.
And that’s not the half of it. As quickly becomes apparent, the two harbour passionate opinions about food and life, and these are often in profound disagreement. She worries about fibre and vitamins, and happily turns vegetarian if ever he’s away; he likes red meat, rich sauces and the wondrous versatility of white flour. She’ll serve the family in a fairly casual style; he insists on a setting appropriate for the queen. And that’s just at home, where there are the four of them. Vikram and Meeru are business partners as well, and the restaurants they run have been successful largely because the two pay such intricate attention to detail. Sometimes the frostiness resulting from the various conflicts will go on for days, finally broken when one of the two says, "Relax, honey" and cooks something special to be enjoyed at the new dining table.

Indeed, domestic reconciliations helped generate many of the book’s 100 or so recipes. The intimidation factor of Indian cookery is also addressed, with a fascinating chapter on Indian spices and another with guidelines on how to cook more easily. Vikram and Meeru were stunned by some of the inquiries that arrived after the first book (among them an email asking whether potatoes should be mashed before or after boiling). Old fans will notice a fresh variation on Vij’s famous lamb popsicle; newcomers will be surprised at the simplicity of most of the preps. Pretty much everyone will pause at the recipe for spicy roast crickets ("Spread crickets on a baking sheet, sprinkle with oil..."), a variation on a dish that became a sensation while on the menu at Vij’s last year.

Around the dining table, Meeru and Vikram discuss restoring insects to the menu, but the topic quickly veers into an argument over whether grasshoppers and locusts are the same thing. I leave shortly thereafter, secure in the knowledge that, sooner or later, one of them will be saying, "Relax, honey"-and just then a recipe for the next book will enter its development phase. wl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 


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