|
Ah, le macaron-how we’ve come to love thee. Crunchy on the outside, light as a feather and chewy on the inside, macarons (not to be confused with those coconut lumps, macaroons) are France personified-precious, colourful, unique. The petite delicacies have been around for centuries, but it was not until the 1950s, when renowned Parisian pâtisserie Ladurée jammed two of the meringue discs together with some chocolate ganache as mortar, that the modern version was born. In times past a trip to the City of Light was required to indulge, but of late a new crop of bakeries across the West is dipping into the meringue and turning out impressive examples of this Gallic calling card.
Vive Le Macaron
Thierry This fall, CinCin’s pastry chef, Thierry Busset, is looking to create a West Coast version of Paris’s legendary Pierre Hermé on burgeoning Alberni Street. Busset worked at two Michelin 3-star restaurants in London, so we expect a transformative macaron from this modern meringue master. thierrychocolates.com
Fairmont Empress Hotel The iconic hotel provides a classic setting in which to make like French nobility and thoughtfully nibble an almond macaron with Valrhona Manjari chocolate ganache that comes with after-dinner mignardises. 721 Government St., Victoria, 250-384-8111, fairmont.com
Murchie’s The classic tea purveyors feature a-what else-green tea macaron (as well as a few other varieties) at all their locations, providing a sweet counterpoint to your bracing Darjeeling or Assam. Locations in Vancouver, Victoria, Richmond and Surrey,
murchies.com
Sooke Harbour House This locavore temple creates macarons with a Vancouver Island flavour; they include local hazelnuts or walnuts and herbs like sweet woodruff. 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., Sooke, B.C., 250-642-3421,
sookeharbourhouse.com
Yann Boutique This Calgary patisserie is gaga for les macarons, creating such versions as dark Gianduja and a mind-altering pistachio with Morello cherry that will have you whistling La Marseillaise. 329 23rd Ave. SW, Calgary, 403-244-8091,
yannboutique.com
Koko Patisserie A touch of Paris has arrived in Regina’s Warehouse District, featuring cakes, fresh bread and a small but growing selection of tempting macarons. The best on offer? A crisp and buttery mocha cream. 1205 Broad St., Regina, 306-352-0220, kokopatisserie.com
Le Macaron Gilles Gobin, the Hotel Saskatchewan’s former top pastry chef, will unveil a much-anticipated dessert café this summer in Regina’s east end, with an assortment of housemade macarons taking centre stage, naturally. 2705 Quance St., Regina, lemacaron.ca
Duchess Bakery The salted caramel version at this Edmonton mainstay has been known to prompt spontaneous singing of Edith Piaf tunes-they’re that bien. 10720 124th St., 780-488-4999, Edmonton, duchessbakeshop.com
|
| |
|
RECIPES
Basic Macaron Batter
From I Love Macarons by Hisako Ogita (Chronicle 2009)
 2⁄3 cup ground almonds
1 ½ cups powdered sugar
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
5 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract, or seeds from half a
vanilla bean
Place oven racks in the centre of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Cut a sheet of
parchment paper (or other nonstick liner) to fit your baking sheet. Draw 1-inch circles on the paper, spacing them at least a ½ inch apart. This pattern will be your guide for squeezing out the macaron batter. In a food processor, grind
almonds and powdered sugar together to a fine powder. Sift the mixture twice through a
medium-mesh sieve. Set aside.
In a stainless steel mixing bowl, beat egg whites on high speed until they are foamy. Gradually add the granulated sugar to the egg whites. Beat again on high speed until the egg whites reach stiff, glossy peaks (about one minute). Add vanilla and stir lightly. When the meringue is stiff, firm and has a glossy texture, it is done.
Add half of the sifted almond and sugar
mixture. Stir with a spatula while scooping up from the bottom of the bowl. Add the rest of the flour and mix lightly while forming a circle. When you run out of flour, press and spread out the batter against the bowl’s sides. Scoop the batter from the bottom and turn it upside down. Repeat this process about 15 times. When the batter becomes nicely firm and drips slowly as you scoop it with a spatula, the mixture is done.
Attach a 0.4-inch tip tightly to a pastry bag. Place the bag, tip first, inside a deep measuring cup and pour the batter into it. Close the top of the bag with a clip or rubber band to prevent paste from coming out. Place the prepared parchment paper on the baking sheet and squeeze batter onto the centre of the circles. Allow space for the batter to spread out. Rap the baking sheet firmly against the counter or other flat surface. (This helps the macarons hold their rounded shape and helps the pied, or "foot," to form.)
Dry the batter at room temperature,
uncovered, for 15 minutes. A slight crust should form on top of the macarons. (On rainy days, it is helpful to first dehumidify the room.) If the
batter circles do not stick to your finger when you touch them, the drying process is complete.
Stack the baking sheet with the batter circles onto an empty baking sheet and slide both into preheated oven. To bake the macarons evenly, rotate each tray and exchange top and bottom trays. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until slightly crisp and crackled on top.
If the insides of the macarons are still soft
after 15 minutes, lower the temperature to 300ºF, cover the tray with aluminum foil and bake for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Remove the baking sheets from the oven and cool on a wire rack. When the macarons are completely cooled, remove from the baking sheet. Spread the cream of your choice
between two of the macaron shells. Makes about 2 dozen.
Tip: Macarons can be preserved for about a week if refrigerated in a sealed container.
Why use two trays? Using two trays, one inside the other, prevents the bottom of the macarons from getting overbaked. It is also effective for preventing macarons from puffing up too much or cracking.
|
|
|
