The Renovation Gourmet  
 

Contractor got your kitchen? Put away the chopsticks and plastic forks. A survival guide to home cooking using only counter top appliances.

 
 


Call it Johns’s Law: everything in my life takes longer and costs more than I originally expected. For my most recent kitchen renovation, that meant forever and a fortune. It felt like it began sometime in the mid-Cenozoic period, as much as I can recall. Without a little elbow grease from my friends-and a pile of countertop appliances-I may not have made it unscathed. And I would definitely have been unfed.

I’m an avid cook, so without a kitchen my house soon started to feel more like a hotel room. A very dusty and noisy hotel room, occupied by large, often grumpy strangers, which smelled like paint all the time and was outfitted with a crappy portable radio tuned to some obscure station that played mostly Kid Rock.

Life-and good food-must go on, even amid sawdust and drop cloths. After ordering one-too-many pizza specials (broccoli, donair meat and banana peppers!) and completing a PhD in General Tso’s chicken (minor in dynamite rolls), I was overcome with falafel-induced remorse-or perhaps by the smell. I vowed to eat something homemade and freshly prepared if it killed me. Tearing aside the "kitchen door" (a plastic drop sheet) I breached the threshold. The Kid Rock version of "Feel Like Making Love" was playing on the radio. The room resembled the scene of a war crime. Clearly, no cooking would occur here.

Rooting through the cupboards, I found a rice steamer once proffered as a housewarming present. I could set this up in the living room. There was also an unused fondue pot, a griddle and a toaster oven, a hand blender and a food processor-even a deep fryer. My coveted MAC knives sat in their little cases yearning to chop and slice. I had all the accoutrements of a working galley. Water would have to be carried in from the bathroom, but with the living room’s entertainment unit as my new kitchen island, I was cooking again in no time.

My first experiments were simple ones. A cutting board perched on the ottoman became my butcher’s block, where I assembled the best grilled cheese sandwich of all time. (Very thin tomato and onion slices are the key.) I remember an especially satisfying blender gazpacho and fried chicken wings with lots of celery and carrot sticks. My repertoire became pretty expansive; with appliances scattered throughout different rooms I was ready for a party. As my confidence grew along with the renovation budget, I lost my mind and invited friends over for a dinner party.

As my guests arrived I offered sake martinis garnished with crispy deep-fried shishito peppers (that doubled as a snack). While homemade potato chips rich with thyme and asiago cheese were passed around, I discreetly washed some spinach in the bathroom sink and filled the rice cooker with beer for a Spanish-inspired seafood dish with zesty romesco sauce. (Incidentally, I find that a cooked tomato-based dish-such as a chili or a bolognese sauce-helps neutralize that fresh-paint smell.)

I had toaster oven-blackened roasted peppers for the romesco sauce. My fondue pot was simmering away, doubling as a soup pot for corn chowder. For dessert the panini maker was pressed into action, turning slices of baguette into crunchy little chocolate-stuffed turnovers, with surprisingly harmonious toppings of olive oil and salt.
Now that the kitchen is finished and once again inhabitable, I can look back fondly on the days of renovation gourmet cooking. (Though I don’t miss washing dishes in the bathtub.) It makes sense to cook that way every summer, when heating up the house with my massive new six-burner stove or double wall ovens is unthinkable. My countertop appliances now venture out from the cupboards much more often than before but the sound of Kid Rock’s voice still ruins my appetite.

 

 


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