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RECIPES
Ceviche Fino
From Rosario’s, San Antonio
 1 lb tilapia filets (substitute any firm-fleshed white fish), deboned, skinned and cut into ½-inch pieces
1½ cups fresh-squeezed lime juice
3 serrano chiles, seeded, deveined and cut into thin strips, with seeds from one chile
1/3 cup red onion, finely chopped
½ tsp salt
½ tsp seasoning salt
½ tbsp dried oregano (preferably Mexican)
1 cup jicama, peeled and cut into
½-inch pieces
3 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling
¾ cup cilantro (leaves only), chopped, (plus six sprigs for garnish)
1 large ripe avocado, cubed
¾ cup shredded lettuce
Corn tortilla chips
Place fish in a glass mixing bowl and add 1 cup of lime juice, chopped onion and oregano. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, until the fish appears “cooked” or opaque in the middle.
In another glass bowl combine remaining lime juice, olive oil, serrano chiles, salts, and jicama. Refrigerate mixture for 1 to 2 hours.
When ready to serve, drain excess liquid from both mixtures. Combine fish and vegetable mixtures with chopped cilantro. Drizzle generously with olive oil and adjust salts. Line the bottom of 6 martini glasses with shredded lettuce and divide the ceviche evenly among them. Top with cubed avocado, drizzle with more olive oil and garnish with a sprig of cilantro. Serve with corn tortilla chips. Makes 6 servings.
Classic Margarita
1½ oz tequila (preferably 100
percent agave)
¾ oz Cointreau or Grand Marnier
1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice
Pour ingredients over crushed ice in a salt-rimmed glass. Stir. Garnish with a lime slice. (Alternately, mix ingredients with ice in blender). Makes 1 cocktail.
Ensalada de Jicama
1 medium jicama, peeled and cut into ¾-inch cubes
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
Salt, to taste
2 oranges, peeled, segmented
and cut into ¾-inch pieces
1 bunch watercress, large stems removed
1/3 cup cilantro, chopped
Chile powder (high-quality blend)
Marinate the jicama in lime juice and salt (to taste) for one hour. Add oranges, watercress and cilantro and toss well.
To serve, divide mixture evenly between four plates, sprinkle lightly with chili powder and serve. Makes 4 servings.
Pico de Gallo
(Salsa Fresca)
2-3 serrano or jalapeno chiles, stems removed, finely chopped
(seeds optional; the more seeds, the hotter the sauce)
5-6 ripe plum tomatoes, diced
½ cup white onion, finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, minced (optional)
1/3 cup cilantro (leaves only), chopped
Sea salt, to taste
Mix ingredients together, adding chile seeds to taste for a hotter salsa.
Serve with any and all Mexican-inspired dishes or as a dip for fresh corn tortilla chips. Makes 3 cups.
Enchiladas Verdes
From Los Barrios, San Antonio
1 lb tomatillos, husked and rinsed
2 cloves garlic, peeled
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tbsp vegetable oil
½ onion, finely chopped
Vegetable oil, for frying
12, 6-inch corn tortillas (preferably Don Pancho brand)
2 cups shredded, cooked chicken or shredded queso Chihuahua
(substitute Monterey Jack)
¾ cup sour cream, whisked until
smooth
Chopped cilantro (for garnish)
To make verde sauce, place tomatillos and garlic in a medium saucepan, cover with water and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until tomatillos are soft, about
10 minutes.
Drain and transfer tomatillos and garlic to blender and purée until smooth. Season with salt and transfer back into saucepan to keep warm.
Heat 1 tbsp of oil in another medium-sized saucepan. Add puréed ingredients from first saucepan along with the onion and sauté the mixture for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for about 7 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep sauce warm.
Pour ½-inch vegetable oil into a large skillet suitable for frying and heat over medium-high until hot. Dip tortillas into hot oil one at a time to soften them, for a few seconds each. Transfer to paper towels to drain excess oil.
Fill centre of each tortilla with chicken or cheese and fold over sides. Place seam-side down on serving plates (two per plate) and top with the warm green tomatillo sauce. Garnish with drizzle of sour cream and chopped cilantro. Makes 6 servings.
Enchiladas Mexicanas with Ancho Chile Sauce
From Irma’s Restaurant, Houston
4 tbsp vegetable oil, divided
5-8 small cascabel chiles (approx. 1 oz), stems and seeds removed
3 small ancho chiles (approx. 1 oz), stems and seeds removed
1 cup tomato purée
3 cloves garlic, mashed through
a garlic press
Dash cumin
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
Water or chicken stock, as needed
1½ cups oil (for frying)
8, 6-inch corn tortillas (preferably Don Pancho brand)
¾ lb queso blanco (substitute Monterey Jack), grated
½ medium white onion, finely chopped
One large ripe avocado, sliced
¾ cup cilantro, chopped
To make ancho sauce, heat 2 tbsp oil in medium skillet over high heat and fry chiles until golden and crispy, watching carefully so they do not burn. Remove from skillet and drain on paper towels to cool.
Crumble chiles in blender with garlic, cumin, salt, pepper and tomato purée. Blend mixture for 3 minutes. Add water or stock, ¼ cup at a time, blending well after each addition, until it’s smooth
and the desired sauce-like consistency is achieved.
Add remaining 2 tbsp oil to saucepan and heat over medium-high heat. Add sauce and cook until reduced and thickened (5 to 7 minutes), stirring frequently. Add enough liquid to return to sauce-like consistency, adjust salt and cook another 10 minutes over medium heat. Set sauce aside, keeping it warm.
Combine cheese and onion for filling, keeping some aside for garnish.
When ready to serve, heat oil for frying ½-inch deep in a skillet over medium- high heat. Dip tortillas into oil one at a time to soften them, a few seconds each. Transfer to paper towels to drain excess oil. Dip each tortilla in sauce, coating both sides.
Fill centre of each tortilla with cheese mixture and fold in sides. Place seam-side down on serving plates (2 per plate) and spoon sauce on top. Garnish with crumbled cheese and chopped onion, cilantro and avocado slices. Makes 4 servings.
Red Sauce
The following red and green sauces from Ninfa’s on Navigation in Houston are versatile accompaniments for grilled meats or seafood, tortilla chips or tacos.
2½ lbs fresh, ripe whole Roma tomatoes, cored
2 medium green tomatoes, cored
2 jalapeno chiles, stems removed
1 tbsp vegetable oil
½ large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, mashed through a garlic press
1/3 cup cilantro, roughly chopped and firmly packed
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to broil. Place tomatoes and jalapenos on a foil-lined sheet pan and roast evenly, about 15 minutes. (The skin will be charred in spots.) Remove and allow to cool.
In a skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat and sauté onion until translucent.
Add all ingredients to blender and, working in batches, pulse until a rough texture is achieved. Salt to taste. Makes 5 cups.
Note: To use this sauce for huevos rancheros, bring sauce to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes to thicken.
Green Sauce
From Ninfa’s on Navigation, Houston
3 medium green tomatoes, cored
4 tomatillos, husked and rinsed
3 cloves garlic
2 jalapeno chiles, stem removed
3 medium avocados
3 sprigs cilantro, roughly chopped
1½ cups sour cream
Salt to taste
In medium saucepan, boil tomatoes, tomatillos, garlic and jalapenos for
15 minutes. Drain and cool.
Peel avocados and place in blender with cilantro. Add saucepan ingredients and blend until smooth.
Transfer to a bowl and whisk in sour cream until combined. Salt to taste. Makes 5 cups.
SIDEBAR
Stay
SAN ANTONIO Just below street level is the San Antonio River Walk, a stone pathway connecting shops, restaurants, and museums. That’s also where you’ll find Hotel Contessa (306 W. Market Street, San Antonio, 866-435-0900, thehotelcontessa.com), a luxury hotel that takes full advantage of its location. With 3 outdoor terraces and a heated rooftop pool, you can’t help but appreciate the city’s mix of historic and contemporary architecture. Summer rates from $139 (U.S.).
HOUSTON Hotel ICON (220 Main Street, Houston, 800-970-4266, hotelicon.com) is Houston’s work and play luxe stay. Located in the heart of downtown, just steps from the city’s MetroRail, this conveniently located hotel is the perfect place to unwind after a long day. Wrap yourself in comfort with custom covers or take the plunge and try the Exotica Bath Butler service ($65 U.S.). Rates from $150 (U.S.).
For trip planning, consult Texas Tourism (1-800-8888-TEX, traveltex.com), the San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau (1-800-447-3372, visitsanantonio.com) and the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
(1-800-4-HOUSTON, visithoustontexas.com).
Top Tex Mex
Alan Richman’s favourites in Houston and San Antonio.
1 Irma’s Restaurant No menu, not open for dinner, not to be missed. Irma Galvar’s food is so creative and colourful you won’t mind having it way too early in the day.
22 N Chenevert St.,
Houston, 713-222-0767
2 Ninfa’s on Navigation If there hadn’t been a Ninfa Rodríguez Laurenzo, there wouldn’t be fajitas or tacos al carbon. 2704 Navigation Blvd., Houston, 713-228-1175, mamaninfas.com
3 Taco Taco Try the Tex-Mex carne asada taco (flour tortilla) and the Mexican version (corn tortilla). 145 E Hildebrand Ave., San Antonio, 210-822-9533, tacotacosa.com
4 Los Valles Ten miles from downtown and, for Mexican immigrants, just like home. Fabulous “fruit water” (chili-sprinkled fruit in a cup). Wonderful carnitas (braised meat). Nogalitos and Zarzamora Sts., San Antonio
5 Los Barrios Corn tortillas equalled only by Irma’s, pinto beans rivalled by none. Terrific chicken enchilada with green sauce, a Mexican staple. 4223 Blanco Rd., San Antonio, 210-732-6017
6 Taco Haven Monstrous portions. Try the Ralphie Special, a lightly fried corn tortilla stuffed with fresh chicken and fresh cabbage. 3119 S Gevers St., San Antonio, 210-532-3049, tacohaven.info
7 Henry’s Puffy Tacos A puffy taco is like carnival fried dough, only stuffed. Try the picadillo (basically, ground beef). Good chicken enchiladas, too. 6030 Bandera Rd., San Antonio, 210-432-7341, henryspuffytacos.com
8 Panchito’s Excellent margaritas from an impressive chain. You must have the tender beef empanadas with chili con queso dipping sauce—equivalent to a Tex-Mex cheeseburger. 4100 Mccullough Ave., San Antonio, 210-821-5338, panchitos.net
9 Rosario’s This is a huge place packed with folk art and families. Get the fish taco (tilapia, chipotle-mayo, slaw). I ceased all efforts to communicate in Spanish on this trip when I ordered cajeta (caramelized syrup) crepes and got carnitas instead. 910 S Alamo St., San Antonio, 210-223-1806, rosariossa.com
10 Escalante’s Very professional, with cool service—gringoized Tex-Mex. Nice empanadas and spinach-mushroom enchiladas. If you thought the Alamo was a disaster, just order the fat-free refried beans. Four Houston
locations, escalantes.net
More Mex, Less Tex
Our favourite spots for a taste of Mexico across the Canadian West.
Don Pedro’s 114 Market Ave., Winnipeg, 204-956-7465
The Grotto (Fridays) 101 2 Ave., Vibank, Saskatchewan, 306-762-2010
Mexico Lindo 16604 109 Ave. NW, Edmonton, 780-444-7151
El Rancho 11810 87 St. NW, Edmonton, 780-471-4930,
Juan’s 232 8 Ave. SW, Calgary, 403-266-0051
Boca Loca Two Calgary locations, bocalocacalgary.com
Las Palmeras 3630 50 Ave., Red Deer, 403-346-8877
Dõna Cata 5076 Victoria Dr., Vancouver, 604-436-2232
Tio Pepe’s 1134 Commercial Dr., Vancouver, 604-254-8999
Tacos Mexico Rico 309 W Pender St., Vancouver, 604-688-7426
Hernandez Two Victoria locations, hernandezrestaurant.com
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