The couple on one side talked about her marathon run earlier that day, his real-
estate blog. On the other side, a matched set of young architects analyzed downtown buildings in Seattle. And at the end of the table there were Harry and Hazel, hard-working hotel employees in their early 60s.

No, it was not a get-together uniting a mismatched family. What brought this decidedly mixed group together-at a long table in the Seattle Art Museum’s in-house restaurant-was the fact that we’d all decided to enter into the world of communal dining.

The idea is simple: you agree to show up at an appointed hour, sit with a random group of strangers at large tables, eat the elaborate, multi-course, locally sourced food set in front of you, listen to heartfelt speeches by chefs and farmers about how each leaf was tended, then roll out three hours later stuffed and pickled on wines matched to each course. The trend has been gaining traction in Seattle, where more than a half-dozen restaurants have joined the fray.

For my husband and me, it was more than the vegetable carpaccio with saffron verde dressing, the Kerala curry, the chevre and polenta tart. The dinner was part of a covert plan to actually get to talk to someone in Seattle besides hotel concierges, waiters and sales clerks-the usual actors in a travelling couple’s life.
At subsequent dinners, I’ve heard about one woman’s struggles to adopt, the fascinating business of processing contracts at a video-game company and what a Sarah Palin lookalike from Alaska thought of her famous doppleganger.

And I’ve had food that was just as much out of my everyday reach: oysters with huckleberries, sablefish (caught six hours earlier) with its skin fried potato-chip crisp, pheasant pâté with squash conserves. The Seattle food scene blends homey earthiness and creativity in ways I don’t come by in Vancouver. And its communal dinners take that approach to the limit.

FIVE BEST BETS
CORSON BUILDING
Interaction Level:10
People have been scolded on foodie websites for sticking to themselves too much while dining here.
The scene You could be in someone’s mansion in Tuscany-if you ignore the freeway overpass. The only things missing from the medieval setting are wall torches and a lute player. Intense foodies on hand, skewed toward the high-income or tenure-for-life set. (Though an addiction to Top Chef can compensate for any lack in those departments.)
The neighbourhood Georgetown, an industrial area south of downtown currently being gentrified by a rough-chic set attracted to its brick distillery and a cluster of similar looking buildings.
Overheard "We have to travel somewhere once a month because it’s just too boring to stay in Seattle."
On the table Oysters, Dungeness crab with apples, roasted quail with harissa, hanger steak, goat cheese and pears. $90 on Saturdays (wine extra) or $60 on Sundays (wine included).
5609 Corson Ave. S., Seattle, 206-762-3330, thecorsonbuilding.com

DINETTE
Interaction Level:8
While everyone is at large tables, the crowd isn’t hyped by media coverage to demand transcendent connections.
The scene A graduate-student’s apartment, complete with antique tray-covered walls. Educated, politically aware types everywhere.
The neighbourhood Capitol Hill has always been home to liberals and hipsters (Jimi Hendrix, WTO anarchists) and that vibe is intensifying as new bookstores, bars and condos pop up.
Overheard "Do you think Obama is going to be able to turn this around?"
On the table Recently, a Bavarian Oktoberfest. Celery root slaw, shaved radishes with chives on buttered pumpernickel, roasted beets with walnuts and Bavarian blue cheese. Soft pretzels with dunkel rarebit. A butcher’s platter of handmade weisswurst, sauerkraut with apples and caraway, plus smoked pork kassler chop. Great wine list.
1514 E. Olive Wy., Seattle, 206-328-2282, dinetteseattle.com

VOLUNTEER PARK CAFE
Interaction Level:6
One long table dominates; separate tables gird the perimeter. Both arrangements make it easy to talk or not talk, as you wish; it’s a clubby place even when communal dinners aren’t on.
The scene Former grocery store converted to what feels like a large, homey farm kitchen. Guests are hyper-educated granolaheads, with money.
The neighbourhood Wealthy and lush north end of Capitol Hill. For a bad case of house envy, walk around and admire the magazine-perfect heritage homes
Overheard "How is your daughter’s Ph.D. thesis going?"
On the table Wild boar Bolognese, fall veggie curry, slow-braised pork shoulder, chicken couscous, apple ginger crisp with vanilla ice cream. Sunday suppers are $30 (wine extra).
1501 17th Ave. E., Seattle, 206-328-3155, alwaysfreshgoodness.com

ART OF THE TABLE
Interaction Level:5
The communal table holds only 10, while the other 14 diners are split up among smaller tables. You can interact-especially when dinners start to develop a party feel-or not.
The scene One step up from "secret suppers" in private apartments. The chef hits a gong to announce (and lavishly describe) each course. Dilbert office professionals come with their friends to eat well and have a good time.
The neighbourhood Fremont is a one-time hippie haven now known for its weekend market, brew pub, and collection of funky, Main Street-type shops.
Overheard "The first thing you do is put everything into a spreadsheet."
On the table End-of-summer vegetable salad with herb-marinated goat cheese and preserved lemon; black cod with chanterelles, caramelized cauliflower and fingerling potatoes in corn broth; palate-cleansing cantaloupe sorbet; roast leg of lamb with polenta; lacinato kale and herb pistou; strawberry jam crêpe with poached peach and housemade cinnamon basil ice cream. $55 for the dinner; $30 to $35 for wine flights to match each course. Top drawer beer pairings are also available.
1054 N. 39th St., Seattle, 206-282-0942, artofthetable.net

TAVOLÀTA
Interaction Level:2
Unlikely to elicit more than: "Is that the lobster risotto you’re having?" The communal table is a 30-foot slab of Vashon Island fir that extends the length of the long, narrow room.
The scene Hip and noisy. Young, tanned guests marked with smart jewellery on the ladies and stubble on the men.
The neighbourhood Belltown is to Seattle what Yaletown is to Vancouver. Lots of new condos, hot restaurants, places to buy $400 dresses that look as though they were made from recycled newspaper.
Overheard "When did you get back from Maui?"
On the Table Bruschetta with smoked mackerel and aioli, potato gnocchi with pork spare rib, lamb with pine nut salsa verde, house made pickled vegetables. Mains are $20 to $30. 2323 2nd Ave., Seattle, 206-838-8008, ethanstowellrestaurants.com/tavolata