SINCE COLUMBUS BROUGHT THEM back from the New World, the chili pepper’s influence has spread to the cuisines of India, Spain, Thailand, China, Africa and, of course, Mexico. As a general rule, the smaller the pepper, the more capsaicin (the compound which packs a chili’s heat) it contains, so choose accordingly.

Anaheim These long, often pale- to medium-green chilies are sweet tasting with just a touch of heat, making them great for a fresh salsa that can be enjoyed by all palates.

Bell The sweet pepper is like Clark Kent: mild-mannered. The red, green and yellow varieties are a staple of salads, veggie trays and sizzling fajita platters.

Jalapeno The workhorse of the chili world. They can be green or red, and when dried, jalapenos become chipotles and take on a great, smoky character.

Habanero This staple of Caribbean and Yucatan cooking is lantern-shaped and can be green, red or orange when fully ripe. Use them to make fiery beef chili.

RECIPES

Mussels Arrabiata
By chef Glen Manzer, Bonterra Trattoria, Calgary
1 lb Mediterranean mussels
1⁄4 cup garlic-flavoured olive oil (let two peeled cloves sit in oil overnight)
8 cloves garlic, minced
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1⁄2 cup roasted red peppers, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
1⁄2 cup dry white wine
1⁄2 cup fish stock
1⁄2 cup fresh tomato sauce
1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice
1⁄4 cup mixed fresh herbs (basil, tarragon, Italian parsley and oregano), finely chopped
2 tbsp fresh chili pepper (jalapeno for mild, thai for hot), minced
2 tbsp dried chili flakes

Clean mussels with a stiff-bristled brush under cold water. Discard any open mussels that do not close when tapped. Right before cooking, debeard mussels. (Pull fibrous threads out of shells with your fingers, tugging toward hinged part of shell.)

Heat garlic-flavoured olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the garlic, shallots and red peppers and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the wine, stock and tomato sauce, cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes (or just until the mussels have opened), shaking the pan or stirring a couple of times to make sure the mussels cook evenly. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a bowl. Discard any unopened mussels.

Reduce the mussel liquid over high heat until it thickens slightly. Add lemon juice, fresh herbs and fresh and dried chilies. Cook 1 minute then taste, adjusting chili, salt and pepper. Add mussels back to pan to cover in sauce, then pour into large serving bowl. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Serve with crusty focaccia or ciabatta.
Makes 6 appetizer or 2 main course servings.